Most portrait studios use 120 roll film cameras with a medium telephoto lens (about 180mm) to photograph individuals. Of course, shorter focal length lenses also will be needed for photographing couples or groups. Outdoor, environmental photography is very popular today for both high school seniors and family groups. Medium format, 120 roll film cameras also are used for this type of portraiture outside the studio. More compact and portable 35mm cameras are seldom used for professional portraiture. This is because the 24 x 36mm (35mm film) negative is too small for retouching easily. The 120 film cameras produce an image three to five times larger. It is not only easier to retouch, but also can be enlarged to produce much bigger wall display prints.
A wheeled mono pod studio stand for inside work and a sturdy tripod outdoors are essential for producing top quality images with the larger, heavier, medium format cameras. Newer models of these cameras offer optional automatic exposure and motorized film advance features. This automation gives the photographer more time to devote to capturing memorable poses of the subjects.
Lighting
Portrait studio lighting is primarily electronic flash for photographing people of all ages. The bright, but extremely short duration, light is excellent for capturing the subject, yet it remains cool. Years ago, continuous light sources, such as tungsten or quartz lamps, were more common. But the portrait subject often became uncomfortable under the hot lighting.
Studio electronic flash units are AC powered and bulky. Often they are on wheeled stands that telescope for height adjustment. Also available are overhead rail lighting systems that suspend the light heads from the ceiling. This minimizes the clutter of stands and cords often found in portrait studios. Portrait lights tend to have large reflectors, twelve to sixteen inches in diameter. They have movable barn doors and diffusion screens for simple adjustment of the quality of light produced. Each light has its own incandescent modeling light, which makes it simple to position the lights to produce the exact intensities and shadows desired for each individual's unique facial features. The intensity of the modeling lights varies to correspond with the intensity of the flash itself. A minimum of four such lights, two floods and two spotlights, are needed for quality portraiture.
A soft, complimentary type of studio light frequently used for photographing women is the umbrella light. Most any studio light can be easily adapted to accept an umbrella. Other helpful studio accessories include adjustable height posing tables, reflectors, and vignetting diffusers to place in front of the lens.
For candid coverage of weddings, bar mitzvahs, and other occasions, more portable cameras and lighting equipment are necessary. Small 35mm equipment is commonly used for these events since this type of camera is far more portable. Compact, powerful, battery powered electronic flash units can be used on either automatic or manual to adequately light most events. For large groups, several additional flash units, with an electric eye slave that syncs them with the camera flash, can be an asset in obtaining proper lighting.
Portable flash units are sometimes used for environmental portraiture. More often, white cardboard or fold up cloth reflectors or umbrellas are carried to provide the additional fill light required in some outdoor situations. Sometimes black umbrellas are used to shade and produce more flattering diffused lighting.
Whether working indoors with artificial lighting or outdoors with natural light, the portrait photographer must always control the lighting so the subjects will look their best. Most individuals do not have their portrait made very often, so it is the photographer's responsibility to produce the best quality possible.
Processing
Although most portrait studios have a rudimentary darkroom on their premises, it frequently is equipped only for basic black and white processing and printing. Most portraits, other than press release views, are made on color negative film, and the resulting prints are color enlargements.
Most smaller volume studios do not produce enough portraits, or have a large enough staff of employees, to justify doing their own color film and print processing in house. Custom color processing labs are found everywhere today and often offer pick up and delivery service to studios within a nominal driving distance. Even when using mail, or UPS service, round trip to a color lab usually only takes about a week. So the added costs and skills necessary to install and operate a color processing lab are impractical. The advent of digital photography promises significant change in this area. Production of photos through the use of computers and color printers will become increasingly common and continues to grow more promising.
Smaller portrait studios today find that they must be able to do more than produce quality studio portraits to survive. Large volume portrait studios operating out of mass merchandising stores provide tough competition on pricing. Independent studios must diversify and offer additional services to keep busy. Environmental portraiture, copy and restoration of old photographs, and framing are several common sidelines that can bring in additional business.
Many skills in addition to being able to adjust the lights and expose film correctly are needed. Some artistic skills for retouching color negatives and spotting prints are essential. Keeping detailed records and books for scheduling sittings, planning delivery of finished work, and all financial transactions must be done by somebody at the studio. Often the photographers and their spouses handle most of these tasks until the volume of work justifies hiring additional people.
Purchasing all new equipment to start a portrait studio is expensive. This type of small business has an unusually high number of failures, so be cautious. Sometimes you can find an established studio that is for sale because the owner is retiring or moving. Purchasing an existing facility with most of the equipment you will need, and a list of customers, often can be the best way for a younger photographer to get started. Check the classified ads in the back of publications such as The Professional Photographer, The Rangefinder, and Studio Photography for current listings of studios and equipment for sale.
If you decide to open a studio of your own, try to have adequate capital to stay in business for a year or more with minimal additional income. It takes time to become established and pay all the monthly bills as well as have some left over for a salary for yourself.
Portraiture with the 35mm Camera
For each picture making situation and for each photographer, there is a format that is appropriate to the creation of the ideal image. Alfred Eisenstadt, a pioneer in the use of the 35mm camera, was the first of many who responded to the particular possibilities of this format to make exciting, alive portraits.
The advantages of 35mm portraiture are:
- Size. The relatively small size of the camera means easy portability and availability for location and informal portraiture.
- Flexibility. The variety of lenses available, their easy interchangeability, and the greater number of exposures per loading encourage creative exploration.
- Ease of use. The relatively greater depth of field of shorter lenses means that photographs can be made with less light.
The 35mm camera can be used in a portrait studio in place of a view camera, but it is in environmental situations that the 35mm presents the greatest opportunities for unique portraiture. The subject can be actively involved with the photographer and can be captured on film as the real individual he or she is, without the dissimulation that often occurs in formal, camera on tripod situations. The photo journalistic portrait is an obvious example. Executive portraits appearing in annual reports and other corporate publications are often done with a 35mm camera, portraying people in actual situations to convey spontaneity and credibility. The 35mm is also a natural for informal portraits of children and the tool par excellence for character studies and travel photos.
One caution: A simple fun and games, "click click" approach will produce only sloppy snapshots. The fundamental requirements of appropriate lighting, good composition, and control of the image are the same for 35mm and for larger formats. Even when unable to manipulate the subject, light, and location, the photographer must be aware of everything in the picture area. He or she also must be so familiar with the equipment that the mechanical aspects are automatic, permitting concentration on the esthetics.
